Amalia Brightley-Hodges speaks to sixth generation family member, John Maclean about the family’s long running history in the world of luxury knitwear and the company’s vision for the future of John Smedley Ltd...
John Smedley was established in 1784 , at Lea Mills, in Matlock, Derbyshire by John Smedley and Peter Nightingale, Great Uncle of Florence. Their base, Lea Bridge provided an ideal setting for the mill as the brook which ran through the village provided motive power and a constant source of running water.
Towards the end of the 18th century John Smedley was running the business alone, although the Nightingale family retained an interest in the property. His son, also called John Smedley, then took over at the age of 34 after finishing his apprenticeship at the mill.
It was the second John Smedley who truly took the business forward with his great vision and energy and moved all manufacturing processes onto one site using only the very best raw materials, and investing in new machinery.
After 11 years in trust following the death of the third John Marsden-Smedley, the company was passed onto the fourth John Bertram Marsden-Smedley who became Chairman and Managing Director at the young age of 21 for an astonishing 70 years. After his extraordinary time at the helm of the business, John Marsden-Smedley was succeeded by Ian Maclean who had married his grand-daughter. Together with the Sales Director, Charles Scott, Ian Maclean moved John Smedley away from being heavily involved in underwear manufacture and took the business to where it is today - renowned for the design and manufacture of high quality outerwear.
John Smedley is proudly run by several members of its sixth generation. Andrew Marsden-Smedley became chairman in 1981 and is still the company’s President. On his retirement as Chairman, Andrew handed the business down to Lowry Maclean. In 2000 Tony Langford was appointed Managing Director and afterward Chairman, the first non-family member to be introduced to the Board.
Today, Ian Maclean, 7th generation family member is chairman, and John Maclean is current Vice President. “Working in the business has meant that I’ve got to know my entire family extremely well because relationships and communication are so key, in a family business probably more than others. John Smedley is the glue that holds the family together. We could have sold the business ten times over but each time we’re approached we decline. Firstly because they would move the business overseas where production costs are far cheaper but quality cannot be assured. Secondly it is doubtful the site in Derbyshire would remain in production which would in turn impact out employees badly."
The workers on the factory floor are also often members of the same family, bringing a true sense of community to the business. This environment also means that employment is very rarely an issue as skills are passed down through the generations. The company realise the value of treating employees well and NVQs are offered to all employees because it is crucial to keep young people filtering through the ranks.
When talking about the current running of the business, John is clear on the requirements from family members thinking of joining the company. “In the past we’ve not had any formal succession plans in place but the individual needs to be able to juggle the needs of the family, keeping them happy through good times and bad and steer the non-family members responsible for running the business. Succession is a tricky subject and there’s a great need for respect in these situations. We bring in non family members because they are specialists in what they do and can provide an alternative insight to the expertise we have in-house.”
So how does this, already global brand, continue to grow and be innovative?
“We know that the current economic climate isn’t perfect, it’s tough but probably worse for others as we are at the top end of the market. We’re in it for the long term clients know we’ll be around through thick and thin.”
At John Smedley they have embraced the world of e-commerce and since their first online sale 8 years ago, web sales have soared. John Smedley exports to 37 different countries and 60% of their garments are exported. Their staff travel around the world to gauge trends, fashions and cultures and there is no knee jerk reaction to the market place.
“We pride ourselves on our heritage, our stability as a business and our respect for the past but at the same time we are continuing to drive forward, invest in the latest technology and expand into new markets.”
John Smedley are renowned for knitting fully-fashioned, fine-gauge products, mostly 30 gauge, an ultra lightweight fine knit that is rarely produced by other manufacturers. Once knitted, the body panels and sleeves are linked together by hand, stitch for stitch, to create the impeccable neat seams which remain one of the hallmarks of real luxury knitwear.
From the design stage through to each area of manufacture the company strives for the best, and successfully combines tradition with modern techniques to produce garments unparalleled in design excellence. And the company still has its base at Lea Mills, extolling the family virtues that were responsible for the growth of the Smedley business into the force in fashion that it has become today.
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